TMS July Mono-sewn: A Mono Coco (and her wearable muslin)

July's challenge over at The Monthly Stitch is Mono-sewn, which in this instance I've taken as the black and white monotone. I've sewn a Coco dress in houndstooth double knit from fabric.com.

The dress was originally sewn as part of last month's Indie Pattern month, but unfortunately I just couldn't get my act together photos-wise. However, I have come to realise and accept that this is really about sharing the sewing love and if that means taking a picture without perfect hair, that is not the end of the world. I also cut out the top as part of Sew Stretchy, which I think was April's challenge? Since cutting both I have lost quite a bit of weight, so neither fits quite right, although this is more noticeable in the top, which has become more of a tunic.

So, on to the dress. Coco is a knit dress or top designed for sewing with stable knits. It's a very quick sew - even for me who machine bastes before overlocking seams - and quite satisfying. There also isn't a huge amount of hemming, which is always nice.

The fabric is a bit thinner than I initially realised, but I love the houndstooth enough that I can get over it. It is a double knit, with the houndstooth on one side and just black on the other and the layers can be pulled apart (if you want to, though I'm sure I would never play with my fabric in such a naughty way).

In terms of sizing, it is supposed to be a relaxed fit, although probably not a relaxed as my dress, based on my new measurements I would sew at least one size down, if not two. The sleeves are set in flat, so that's pretty easy. Length-wise, I have (relatively) long arms, so I find them a little short, they tend to sit at bracelet length, but those with normally proportioned limbs probably will not face this issue.

Disproportionately long arms

I generally sew knits up on my overlocker, but because I don't trust myself to evenly feed the fabric through the machine, I machine baste it on my sewing machine first. Well, except for the bands, because I don't love sewing around in circles very much and so I'd rather not have to do each on twice :). The dress comes together very quickly though, even with basting (not that I'm suggesting everyone do it, but if you ever find that your overlocked seams have that 4 mm creep, give the basting a crack). I used a double needle to hem the skirt and sleeves, but chose to zigzag the neckline, because variety is the spice of life. I used fusible web and made sure to sew slowly and steadily (it's an adjustment after overlocking!) on the hems sewn with the double needle to avoid tunnelling, although it probably wouldn't have been an issue with a knit as stable as this one.

I had a recent revelation that I don't mind zigzagging hems because I actually don't mind if people realise my clothes are homemade. I know that I sew reasonably well and the clothes I make I'm happy to wear out and about and I'm not ashamed if someone is able to pick that I made it. Plus when you zigzag you don't have to stress about tunnelling. That said, I'm going shopping for a coverstitch machine in the next couple of days.

Look! Too fast for the camera!

This dress has been great to throw on and pop up to the shops, particularly if you have been flaunting convention and wearing leggings as pants around your house (or out and about, no judgement here!).

Are those leggings as pants?

I quite like Tilly's patterns in general, they are targeted at beginners, with lots of pictures and hand holding, which is nice. I choose to buy her paper patterns and have them shipped out to me, which is expensive, but a price I am willing to pay to avoid having to deal with the printing and the taping (sorry PDF patterns, I use you and respect you, but I just don't like you that much). There is a lot of information on her blog, including a sewalong and some pattern variations.